23 November, 2017

August 2012

Jonathan Piercy (AGW 2011)

Jonathan Piercy gives his tips for gardening tasks in August.

 

1. Dead head plants regularly to ensure repeat flowering.

2. Lift your onions and shallots. If we continue with wet weather they will start to rot at the bottom.

3. Summer pruning of fruit trees and shrubs can be carried out where required.

4. Give your shrubs and herbaceous border a final summer feed with blood, fish and bone.

5. Plant out winter vegetable plants where early potatoes have been lifted.

 

6. Regular applications of fungicide and insecticide are required to keep roses etc free from disease.

Garden snail on flowers

 

 

 

7. Slugs and snails are abundant due to the wet summer. Protect vunerable plants with pellets or sheep’s wool.

8. Bulbs will soon be arriving in nurseries, so prepare for next spring’s burst of colour.

9. Hedges can be given a summer cut and conifers can be trimmed towards the end of the month and into September.

10. Soft fruit is ready for picking. Prune out this year’s fruiting wood and leave this year’s new growth ready for fruiting next year.

 

Cabbage growing advice from Peter Blackburne-Maze.

It certainly has been a summer of extremes – rain one minute and near-drought conditions the next.  In other words, pretty normal for us.

There are still things to be done, though, as gardening is a never-ending pastime. I’m thinking especially of sowing spring cabbages for overwintering. There are several varieties but ‘Durham Early’ and ‘Flower of Spring’ are a couple of the most reliable and popular.

Get them in soon, though, or there could be problems if the winter is severe and the plants are too small to take it. On the whole, this is why I tend to grow Durham Early, the very name makes it sound more suitable for here.

Sow the seeds in drills (shallow troughs) about half-an-inch deep and transplant them in a month or so’s time when they are 4-5in. tall.

The planting distance will vary according to their ultimate use; either hearting cabbages or spring greens. For hearting, 12in. apart with 12in between the rows is about right but, for spring greens, 4in. apart with 12in. between the rows is enough.

Sadly, that is about the only ‘constructive’ job that is left to be done. If you leave it much longer, you could end up in a muddle. However, this is where glass or plastic cloches can come in handy as they give you just a week or two extra to ensure that the little plants are successful.

Talking of brassicas, if your garden is less than sheltered, it’s worth pushing in a cane (one per plant) beside Brussels Sprout and Sprouting Broccoli (one cane per plant) and tying the plants to them before the autumn gales flatten them!

 

 

 

 

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